Stock CPU cooler for gaming...Should i keep it?
I bought a mighty fast Core i5 4670 which boosts up to 3.8Ghz and was wondering if I should stick with the stock cooler or should I buy some thing a bit more fancy. I haven't tested it out yet, But when my PC is finished, it will be used for youtube, metro last light, crysis 1 maxed out & no overclocking
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08:40am 05/01/14 Permalink
Stock coolers are generally adequate for normal temperatures. They would struggle with hot days like yesterday whilst under gaming load. They are also super loud.
Buy an aftermarket cooler, they are HEAPS better and most are quieter. I highly recommend Hyper 212 Evo. |
08:49am 05/01/14 Permalink
is your computer overheating? yes you should replcae stock cooler.
no? then its fine. case closed. |
08:50am 05/01/14 Permalink
I overclocked my Core i5 4670 to 4Ghz using the stock cooler and I didn't have any troubles yesterday despite it being really, really hot. I still plan on getting a custom cooler (probably liquid cooling) at some point since I want it a little faster but the stock one does just fine for now.
I should mention that I have 5 case fans too, so the PC is pretty extensively cooled otherwise. |
09:19am 05/01/14 Permalink
I would upgrade just for piece of mind and they don't cost much.
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09:23am 05/01/14 Permalink
yeah, unless there is a heat issue, or you're aiming for a whisper quiet system, there is no reason to replace the stock cooler.
if you look at the temps and are a little worried about them being high (even tho there are no issue) then maybe, it would be a personal call, I replaced my stock for a small all in one water cooler, and the temps on the CPU dropped, and the case temps dropped (the radiator it at the rear of the case) which I did when I got a beefier GPU (there was too much heat in the case, it could have been solved with extra fans, but I didn't want the noise) |
09:24am 05/01/14 Permalink
The difference in noise between a stock cooler and most after market coolers is worth buying on that alone. Couple it with the fact that they run better and it's pretty much a win of a purchase.
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09:46am 05/01/14 Permalink
Ah so there you go, humidity does affect PC temps, you learn some thing new every day. My PC sounded like an F-18 hornet on the runway yesterday holy crap was it loud
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10:49am 05/01/14 Permalink
stock coolers are fine, nothing wrong with a bit of pc noise.
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11:03am 05/01/14 Permalink
This is why spook hits his head against the desk in his avatar (that and he drinks VB)
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11:19am 05/01/14 Permalink
no, that is me just after reading most of your posts actually hermi :)
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11:36am 05/01/14 Permalink
You need a gaming heatsink for gaming. Headshots are heaps easier and with the extra cooling you can sprint further.
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11:38am 05/01/14 Permalink
At stock speeds you'll be fine. To test the case thermals (and CPU/VRM stability) when your build is complete, do this: |
01:06pm 05/01/14 Permalink
a heat sink is a must IMO. I learned back when I was getting s*** FPS in BC2, I learned all about benchmarking and bottlenecks, and my cpu was a major bottle neck due to overheating. When I whacked a Thermaltake heatsink on, my game performance went through the roof.
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02:05pm 05/01/14 Permalink
LOL
I just noticed I said piece instead of peace. Classic Rev. |
02:41pm 05/01/14 Permalink
don't listen to spook, he drinks vb, likes plasma and uses IE.
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09:41pm 05/01/14 Permalink
Headshots are heaps easier and with the extra cooling you can sprint further. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind :) I use HW monitor, My CPU was at 32c and my system is at 70c, so i changed the fan and the system is at 49c, cpu is the same, wierd.... |
09:49pm 05/01/14 Permalink
if you can afford it and have the room I highly rate the Noctura D14
http://www.xtremecomputing.co.uk/images/review/Noctua_NH-D14/Noctua_NH-D14_21.jpg |
10:44pm 05/01/14 Permalink
I'm using a GlacialTech Igloo which kind of looks like the stock cooler, but has a standard size 80mm fan
The CPU went from 71c to 66c when playing crysis maxed out, a big improvement for a little bit extra, but I'm thinking now about thermal paste. suggestions? |
08:51pm 13/01/14 Permalink
I have my 3570k running @ 4.2ghz and stable. I'm still using the stock cooler and I've not had any trouble.On my side panel, I have a suck 120mm fan taking in air around the height of my GPU with another 120mm blowing out just above the CPU and 2x 80mm fans on the back both blowing any remaining hot air out the back / sucking a bit of air in through the front of the case.
If you have no case fans, then a new cooler will be a must buy, but honestly, the stock cooler is pretty solid unless you want to overclock to 5ghz or you are having trouble keeping 4.2ghz stable on default voltages. I've been gaming in 40 degree days and all I have to do is make sure I crank my GPU fans to 100% (7990 runs pretty hot) and my CPU is fine. I WAS going to throw on another cooler (Was a 2x 80mm fan coolermaster with 6 heatpipes) but honestly I have not had any need to install it. The CPU went from 71c to 66c when playing crysis maxed out, a big improvement for a little bit extra, but I'm thinking now about thermal paste. suggestions? From what I remember from reading through a "let's look at thermal paste" article on Tom's Hardware, thermal paste doesn't make much difference. You might gain a few degrees over the default installed paste with a $10 tube, but honestly, good case airflow makes up for it and then some. Also, the "silver" and other premium style thermal pastes were gimmicks more than anything. They had a tiny improvement once burned in, but it was fractions of a degree over decent cheap stuff. |
11:24pm 13/01/14 Permalink
Yep, there's a max of about 2 degrees difference across most of the thermal pastes.
It's the same with custom loop water cooling, everyone freaks out about fans like they make a f*** ton of difference, they don't. It's all about surface area, so if you go custom get a big one. pew |
08:55am 14/01/14 Permalink
So are these i5/i7 stock coolers quiet in anyway? I know AMD's coolers are massively loud.
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10:08am 14/01/14 Permalink
They're pretty meh. They are 'ok' for cooling, 'ok' for noise, etc.
The hex core i7's don't even come with coolers, just a chip in a box. http://www.legitreviews.com/images/reviews/2203/4770k-cpu-cooler.jpghttp://www.legitreviews.com/images/reviews/2203/4770k-cpu-cooler-base.jpg |
10:12am 14/01/14 Permalink
So are these i5/i7 stock coolers quiet in anyway? I know AMD's coolers are massively loud. From what I recall before I put in the 120mm's and the 7990, it was pretty quiet. Even now, it's easily drowned out by the softest of VG music / youtube vids / movies. Though I suppose I'm not the best person to be asking, since I fall asleep listening to podcasts. Need something to keep my brain occupied, because it can take me hours to fall asleep some nights. |
10:14am 14/01/14 Permalink
My current fan, hyper 212, is so quiet that the fridge compressor fan in another room stands out as being noisy (it isn't).
That was a $40 fan, easily the best bang-for-your-buck fan on the market imo. Hyper 212 EVO I totally recommend this if you don't want a balls out fan for heavy OCing. This fan will allow mild->moderate OC'ing. |
10:18am 14/01/14 Permalink
Thanks for the info. My case can only support a cooler with a maximum depth of 82mm as it is a HTPC case known as a silverstone SG01-F. Currently, I have about 6cm between the PSU and the CPU fan. the PSU's fan is facing upwards with a 2cm gap from the roof of the case, and the cpu is blowing air downwards and is placed directly under the PSU. Should i leave it as is or have the psu fan and cpu facing each other, with the cpu's fan moving air away from it?
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07:49pm 14/01/14 Permalink
The PSU's fan typically draw air in, then out the back of the case. The hot air from the CPU cooler will rise by itself and eventually be pulled out by the PSU. |
08:07pm 14/01/14 Permalink
One word of advice, if you get a closed system watercooler.
Pull your video card out for the first test run. I put in a Thermaltake Water 2.0 this morning. It had a faulty hose, very slow weep. By the time windows booted up a drop went onto my GTX 590. The GTX 590 is now history. Lucky it didn't take the remainder of my PC with it. Now I'm sporting a GTX 780 and a replacement Thermaltake Water 2.0 (I tested before putting the video card in just incase). Temps: i7 2600k OC'd to 3.8Ghz on stock cooler: 85-90 degrees running intel burntest on standard. Water 2.0: 50 degrees average, max 60. Idle: Stock air cooler: 42-44 degrees C Water 2.0: 28-33 degrees. Monitored using HWMonitor. Umart were pretty good about it. I showed pics of the leaking pipe and they spotted one of the pinion/ball joints was wet for the swivel hose nipple as well. Replaced it on the spot and they're sending my GTX 590 away with it to Thermaltake to badger them for something for that too. Will see how that goes in six months. If you setup one of those closed systems, by god take out your video card! If it drips with your PC upright at least you will miss your motherboard and just land on the base of your case or top of your enclosed PSU. |
10:41pm 14/01/14 Permalink
Replacement one is going strong, no leaks.
Single drip that killed my GTX590 has me scared for my new GTX780. |
11:07pm 14/01/14 Permalink
One word of advice, if you get a closed system watercooler. Or just test it outside of your system. Plug in any power needed to the Mobo + have a stock cooler on your CPU. Then just turn it on and let it run for a while and use your PC in the mean time with the WC loop sitting on something absorbant on your desk etc. Had a friend about to plug his WC in and after I confirmed he'd not tested it, I told him to turn it on outside of the system (he was halfway through putting it into his PC lol) and after about 20 minutes, a seal burst and coolant sprayed everywhere. His PC survived and he still occasionally thanks me XD |
01:18am 15/01/14 Permalink
Water cooling looks great, one of my mates uses it, managed to overclock his core 2 duo E8400 from 3Ghz to 5Ghz, how is that possible?
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06:25pm 15/01/14 Permalink
He had a very good chip or was giving it a real workout. I've had a 920 2.6G run at 4.2G, but the cores themselves were awfully warm under load.
You need a Z series chipset for good OC support. If WC is in your budget, consider a Corsair unit with at least a 120mm fan. In my opinion, you only see advantages to WC as the rads get larger. A 120mm rad is about the size of a large air cooler so they don't take a ton of load. As soon as you go to 240mm, 360mm, or double thickness rads etc, the temps get lower and lower. WC is all about that surface area. Also, the larger the rads, the slower you can run your fans and quieter the system. As an example, under full load I can run my fans at 20% no worries, but that's with 2 x 560mm rads. Note that all of the corsair units I've done in builds make this odd sound from the pump every now and then. Almost sounds like it's loading the pump up periodically for a test. |
07:02pm 15/01/14 Permalink
water cooling + pcs is a bad idea.
theres just too much chance something horrible is going to go wrong. at least new water cooling systems are more compact than the old ones. if i was at all concerned about the amount of cash i was spending on pcs, id never touch water cooling. |
08:14pm 15/01/14 Permalink
nar water cooling is fine,
leaks are pretty rare, and if you're really worry, a non conductive fluid would easy most peoples minds |
08:16pm 15/01/14 Permalink
a decent air cooler is a better option.
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08:21pm 15/01/14 Permalink
a decent air cooler is a better option. under what reasoning?, power draw?, noise? space/effectiveness, ability to cool cause there are a few there that water cooling is going to win hands down, just saying |
08:24pm 15/01/14 Permalink
Water cooling looks great, one of my mates uses it, managed to overclock his core 2 duo E8400 from 3Ghz to 5Ghz, how is that possible? Well to keep the overclock stable, you need to up the voltage, which in turn increases the heat. So (within the physical limits of the chip) the cooler you can get the cores, the faster you can run it. Pretty much every overclocking record was set using liquid nitrogen cooling :P |
08:33pm 15/01/14 Permalink
risk of a water leak low
risk of overheating and frying your CPU, lower than aircool also, I would dare say that leak risk aside, if the air to cool the cpu is ejected directly out of the case, the internal case temps will be lower, causing less stress to other system parts (ram, GPU, H/D), and with a lower high temp, there will be less expansion of parts, and connections, meaning that the parts themselves will last long, and less changes of chip creep or failure of parts so the benefits long term outweigh the risks (which can be negated thru testing the equipment first) |
08:33pm 15/01/14 Permalink
If you see how well hoses on custom loops together, you'll realise you need a willy slapped on your face if you f*** it up. It's different for all-in-one units simply because you don't know how well it was made. When you do each connection by hand you can guarantee it's tight.
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07:32am 16/01/14 Permalink
Really if you are considering water cooling, you probably really should have a system built from the ground up OCing. No point getting a water cooler to OC a low grade chip on a $45 mobo. Not saying yours is, just sayen
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08:17am 16/01/14 Permalink
I put in a Thermaltake Water 2.0 this morning.Friends don't let friends install Thermaltake water cooling! |
09:17am 16/01/14 Permalink
Really if you are considering water cooling, you probably really should have a system built from the ground up OCing. No point getting a water cooler to OC a low grade chip on a $45 mobo. Not saying yours is, just sayen you know, I would practice custom water cooling idea's/rigs on a cheap arse mobo, and low cost (but O'Cable) chip, just to see if there would be any hassles with my idea before doing it on a full cost system (cause when you're learning, mistakes can be made) |
02:12pm 16/01/14 Permalink
Full oil immersion, the only way to OC.
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02:19pm 16/01/14 Permalink
Full oil immersion, the only way to OC. nar, whats that stuff the cray's used (the ones with the bubble wall) I know it was a 3M product, save to handle, but would rip the ozone a new one if it could |
03:03pm 16/01/14 Permalink
^ Fluorinert.
Sealed LN2 systems are apparently almost here. Intel was doing some really awesome stuff recently, haven't seen much on it over the past month or two though. |
03:11pm 16/01/14 Permalink
Masking tape on vice grips to get them compression fittings nice and tight. |
05:48pm 16/01/14 Permalink
Friends don't let friends install Thermaltake water cooling!That's funny because by all benchmarks TT actually surpass all the others. There's very little whinging out there if you google AIO CLC leaks. And the amount of leaks of TT and Corsair are basically identical. Very few. I got unlucky. I'm well aware of the idea of AIO CLC not being able to be guarantee'd as much as a custom. Fyi corsair don't do the guarantee'd replacement if their coolers leak anymore. But thank you for the typical elitist douchebaggery. Didn't even see such idiocy on the OCAU forums where I'd have expected it. last edited by LordHelyi at 19:04:16 16/Jan/14 |
07:02pm 16/01/14 Permalink
i'm thinking of dismantling my AIO and using it in my custom loop setup. I already have two dual 120mm rads full profile, but another single 120mm full profile would help my heating a bit.
Not sure if ill just f*** everything up and destroy a perfectly good AIO though, plus the AIO gives my system a level of redundancy if my custom loop fails |
09:51pm 16/01/14 Permalink
You can always cut the hoses and use a fitting later to reconnect them.
You really need the 240mm AIO for it to be worth while. A 120mm has about the same surface area as a D14 air cooler or similar. |
11:39pm 16/01/14 Permalink
OK, though I'd think the tubing is copper lined so it could be a little difficult to cut and reconnect.
You really need the 240mm AIO for it to be worth while. A 120mm has about the same surface area as a D14 air cooler or similar. yes 120mm but theres rad thickness to consider as well, which is why I got the single |
09:51am 17/01/14 Permalink
Not as far as I know, you can pinch the hose and when you release it bounces back, I doubt there's copper in the lines unless someone has a pic of it.
Custom loop hosing isn't lined either. |
09:54am 17/01/14 Permalink
I'll think i'm going to stick with air cooling, as a LAN box like mine is very small to accommodate the radiator and pipes inside the chassis. After a bit of cable management, I was able to lower my CPU's temp by 5c. now on idle it's gone from 42 to a reasonable 37 using the glascialtech igloo.
just out of interest, what is a good low profile cooler, one which is quiet yet better than stock? It needs to be under 75mm as well |
07:31am 07/02/14 Permalink
Stock CPU cooler for gaming...Should i sorry dude - couldn't help myself. |
06:43pm 07/02/14 Permalink
rihnana building up a bit of rapport before spamming with subtle adds! Works better when you don't necro.
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08:19pm 17/07/14 Permalink
I should keep clean it leaks are pretty rare, and if you're really worry, a non conductive fluid would easy most peoples minds. Classic Engris** |
08:34pm 17/07/14 Permalink
