My car is currently having a twin turbo kit installed and was advised that my rotors are worn and need to be replaced for road worthyness! Anyone know where I could source such kits? just don't recommend me project mu or endless or the like, this kits are hellishly expensive, like 11k or so..
I run a 4 pot wilwood dynalite caliper with 11" rotors on my bucket. True they don't have dust boots but not needed.
Just the way they are designed.
Parts for Wilwood are so well priced.
I paid 110 per slotted rotor.
90 or so for the BP-20 Pads. All shipped from America.
They have KITS to suit most cars. It'll just be one of their calipers mated to a adapter bracket for your car.
This might be subjective but the stopping power is good, however not great. It's not as bitey as a OEM setup but I prefer that. Braking is more progressive and linear but more pressure is required.
TBH, I have no fucken idea. It's been so long since I've driven my car with a OEM setup.
Add to that my car weights like 1080kg, so those brakes are slight overkill.
unfortunately from what i've heard with these kinds of kits you only get what you're willing to pay for
does your 350 have the brembo's or is it the pov spec?
if you have the brembos i would almost guarentee you could get some good slotted rotors and some good project mu or the like brake pads and they would do the trick.
if you don't have the brembos try and find some second hand 350Z brembos for sale and/or do some research into which brembos you could get to fit your car that didn't come on the 350 ie. evo/skyline/ford as i know some of them cross over with a relatively easy little adapter plate you add on to make them fit
Yeah I looked at the Wilwood but ended up going with a set of 4 pot brembo's for my car (brakes are pretty important if you are going to run some power ^^)
i'd defs be looking at finding a set of stock brembos that someone is trying to sell, or look into what other brembos fit your car first before looking at a completely seperate kit
brembo and pretty tried and tested
get a set of DBA4000 or 5000 slotted rotors and some QFM A1RM brake pads(cheap qld made pads that have a 780ºC rating, which makes them basically a semi track pad) or project mu pads if you want to spend more
are you going to track race? otherwise, don't see the point. Won't give you more braking power, just will let you break repeatedly without overcooking the brakes. You won't do that on that road.
Make sure you know what you're actually wanting from this new brake setup.
There's a difference between intial braking feel and the ability to do it over and over again.
i.e coming down from 160-200km/hr 2-3 times every minute.
If street car, I'd just be looking at rotors, pads, braided lines and maybe a master cylinder brace.
DBA rotos are sooooooo expensive.
Might as well source 2nd hand Project MU ones =\
lol at buying second hand brake rotors
they aren't that expensive, unless you're talking about buying them from repco or something
Make sure you know what you're actually wanting from this new brake setup.
There's a difference between intial braking feel and the ability to do it over and over again.
i.e coming down from 160-200km/hr 2-3 times every minute.
agree, have a think about what you're realistically going to be doing with the car
do you take the exhaust off at extractors at track days for super obnoxiousness like the 3 fuckheads that were at the last couple of track days i went to when i had the r32 ?
JBT are good. Bullet Cars are the aus distributor for them and are based at Yatala.. Bullet also pimp out the Monster drift cars (350z) so they will know their way around yours..
FFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUU scuzzy.
You just jelly I am Asian.
Those Civics are actually running full exhaust systems.
If you're talking about the 2 white EG's and a Green EJ. Super quick might I add. 60.xx for the K series powered EG and 63.xx for the B series powered one.
They're just loud as fuck.....because race car.
My GTR got flagged for a redonkulous high speed offense. 200km/hr+
nah these guys weren't running exhausts, i think 2 of them were integras one a new one and one was that green civic you're talking about
nah they definitely weren't running exhausts, apart from the fact i watched at least 2 of them take their exhausts off in the morning you could see the flame under the car when they would change down a gear
this was in 2009 though so maybe they have exhausts now though
What happened after the GTR? I bought a Cefiro and started drifting.
SR20 + GT2876R + 38mm TIAL gate, dumped to atmo and straight twin 3" pipes.
Is there a problem officer? :D
just dropping in to say that QFM pads on cars that aren't driven like they're stolen by socially retarded teenagers are quite good, quiet and pretty much dust-free
so you just sold the gtr after getting done for 200+ ?
depends on the spec hardware, i have the QFM A1RM's which are the semi track type pad and they get plenty of dust. though not as much as the b-spec project mu's i had in the r32 which weren't even a track spec pad
the lower spec qfm hpx and i think there is a proper street spec probably aren't as bad
but eh is there really a magical track pad that doesn't dust up?
i care even less these days as i have charcoal coloured wheels anyway lols
listen to enigma/scuzzy, go get yourself a wilwood kit
dont worry about dust boots or whatevs, I know heaps of people with wilwood kits and really, they have never had any problems
except their eyes hurting from the shit hot stopping power
dont worry about dust boots or whatevs, I know heaps of people with wilwood kits and really, they have never had any problems
I was reading up on them and it reads like it's not a problem at all due to the design and maintanance procedures.
Many people are curious about the 'street-ability' of Wilwood calipers since they don't have dust boots. Do they have to be 're-built' after driving through the winter or when changing pads? The simple answer is "no".
Wilwood calipers are built to such high tolerances these days that road grime will not get in between the piston and caliper housing. With some simple care provided when changing pads, Wilwood calipers can run indefinitely without needing rebuilding. All that is necessary when changing pads is to spray the exposed pistons with brake cleaner and wipe off with a clean rag before pushing the pistons back into the caliper. This simple step is actually why many big brake kit manufacturers have dust boots on their calipers; they believe their customers are too lazy to do this simple task.
Some people are also curious as to why Wilwood does not provide dust boots on most of their calipers. The reason is pretty simple. Wilwood calipers are designed with ultimate performance in mind, i.e.: they expect their calipers to be used hard, which means high temperatures. Dust boots turn to a gooey mess or turn hard and brittle when exposed to the temperatures of driving events/track events and in either case, loose any of their effectiveness to keep road grime off the pistons. When you stop and think about it, this could actually cause a dangerous situation. If you run dust boot equipped calipers very hard (to the point of corrupting the dust boots ability to keep grime off the pistons) and then push the pistons back into the caliper without cleaning them, you could unknowingly compromise the piston/caliper seal and possibly cause a brake fluid leak or total failure.
As a final point about dust seals, we have been providing our big brake kits to 300ZX, 350Z and G35 enthusiasts for over 8 years now with customers all over the world and have yet to have a customer need to rebuild a caliper.
I need new brake pads soon. Current ones stop me dead in an instant and get more dusty than a desert tornado but I don't give a wet rats ass because they're awesome pads. I have no idea what they are because they were on the car when I bought it, I suspect they'll be something highly illegal to buy in aus because of how awesome they are so what's the closest thing to "fucking sticky japanese brake pads" that are sold in aus?
Oh yeah and how do you get in on this track day stuff, do you have to be in a car club or are there open days where you can just turn up and rock out with your waste gate out?
Heh, i had a friend spend 16000 or so on an '86 integra the story is long so here it goes..
Throughout his teenage youth before we could drive he and I had been playing with a 1970's toyota celica wreck. I call it a wreck because it was rusted and old and the tyres had gone flat in his back yard. But on weekends we'd get out angle grinders putty and sandpaper, and had gotten rid of all the rust. The engine itself wasn't touched yet, but it was planned in putting something that wasn't so stock instead anyway.
One party later, and some kids jumped on it's roof in the dark because they thought it was just a wreck.
So anyway, he turns 16.5 and gets his learners, 6 months later and his license. He buys an integra for a few grand and we finish highschool he becomes an apprentice mechanic. He luckily lands himself in a nice spot, a engineering shop near where scuzzy lives now actually, just a bit northside. Every day he's working on rebuilding engines as you do because the shop almost exclusively was stroking big bored engines for 40+ year old american cars. He loves cars himself so he takes out a loan for about 15 000.
He strokes his 1986 integra's 1.6L DOHC engine, bores it, gets big piston heads and increases the compression ratio. He gets some new crow cams with fat lobes and while he's at it he throws in strong valve springs and gets some adjustable cams. He rebuilds his transmission with a nice heavy duty clutch plate, nothing too fancy but more than enough for a 1.6L engine a light weigh flywheel and gets himself a piggyback ECU of sorts, i can't remember which one.
Oh yeah and an exhaust, obviously extractors, cat, resonator single pipe thing. Bigger than stock but not too big. Kind of loud.
For 3 months after he's built it he's in the running in phase, running in oils, dropping them meticulously driving under 4k rpm and considering the hill he lived on he had to get a bit of a run up to do that. After he's clocked the K's he can wind up the engine a bit.. he's a bit like "well there's not much power" but he knows he can still play with ignition timings and fuel ratios, so he gets it tuned.
I on the other hand had a daihatsu charade 1.5L. It was my parents before I bought it off them, while i liked working with my hands I had no interest in cars (well until i started driving, but i already bought the car by then). Once i started driving I started liking it. I couldn't do much to a chrade, i cut a huge hole in the air box and siliconed a 3" ducting pipe to the front bar, the idea to "Scoop" cold air into the airbox. Faster i drove, more air would be "scooped". I also added a resistor on the air tempreature sensor which I calculated to make the ecu think air was 10-20%ish colder than it really was. In other words it'd put more fuel in.
I also grabbed some 14" rims, which were plain and boring; suitable for what was essentially my mum's kid carry car. And some $50 king springs second hand off ebay to increase the rigidity. Overall I spent maybe about $300 in mods.
After his tune, we had a 1/4 mile drag. His car, after a tune was green lighted to be fine above 10 000rpm so he had a limit for 9500 (thanks to his piggyback ecu). So we were lined up, in a road his family owns on their farm (i'm not joking, his family owns a farm and it's got a 2 lane road before it turns to dirt after about 3kms as you get close to the house). So lined up at the fenceline to the 1/4 mile mark which was drawn with chalk, we gave it a drag.
he beat me, money does that when the car was faster anyway. But by only a single car length. Every time I shifted gear, I fell further behind. his 9500 rpm allowed his first to take him up to what like 70kph where as i was shifting by 55.
We finished our drag it wasn't a win for him despite being first. 3 months later he sold his car and he tells me: "If I ever modify a vehicle for speed again, i'm not doing this bullshit NA crap again. If you want power, that's what a turbo is for."
Anyway just kind of a funny story, but anytime if anyone jokes about a NA car i always feel bad. Because I loved my mates integra. It was 86, panda white and black and had the worlds most comfortable front seats. I wish he never sold it but he saw it as a moneypit i guess and would never have given up if he didn't get rid of it.
This is the same colour and year as his:
Must be a common problem to get rust under the rear wing too..
nar, I had a civic, and simply point, boring out a honda engine is a silly move, much like putting on a big exhaust ruins the drivablity imo
good intake, and spoon parts, and sure it will have shit all torque, but it will rev, and be a bucket load of fun
like a rotary sure, turbo it makes big power, but an N/A rotary, bridge ported etc, is heaps of fun, and heaps o power and revs to play with
Spending big bucks building up a small NA motor is insane unless you are happy to part with the money, knowing fully what you're getting yourself into.
But the Honda scene has gone forward quiet a bit in the last decade.
We now simply drop in a K series motor from the newer cars, like a Accord Euro or Integra.
Guys are running 11 second 1/4 miles on a UN-OPENED (N/A) motor with slicks.
Here is Yonas's K24a Civic running a 11.82
You can get it very wrong very easy.
One thing you must realise, HONDA make amazing motors, OEM.
I still rock a stock B series motor, cause I'm not rich/cool enough for a K.
Also, gearing plays a huge part.
With the lack of torque and narrow power band, he should have sourced a higher Final Drive or new gearset.
Something like the factory ITR 4.7FD or a 4.9 from CUSCO/Spoon/etc etc.
(p.s someone donate me 3.9 diff gears for my LS1)
So instruct me on this track day business. I googled the shit out of lakeside and all I could come up with was some oldass queensland raceway site with events from 2008 where none of the links where clickable. I found entry forms for some races at lakeside but they all required you to have about 3 different racing licences.
A) Are there ever days where you can just rock up in your own car, and go for a kain without racing? So they let one guy go, when he gets half way round they let another go, etc. Just go as fast or slow as you want. I'd prefer this as a first timer type of event to at least get used to the track a bit before I'm thrown into a race against some other guy in a car he's probably spent $50,000 just on the air fresheners.
B) Are there any events you can do on just a normal drivers license, because I don't plan on ever making track days a regular thing so I don't see a point in getting clubman or CAMS licenses just for a one off fang around a track here and there.
send neil an email via the link on that page and find out when the next ones on.
the license for sprint days is $20 for the day or $55 for the year
in the sprint days youd start out in the noob group so everyone would be in the same boat, and only when you qualified higher would you move up into the faster groups.
Entry requirements are typically long sleeve clothing and Australian standards approved helmet. You will also require an AASA license (though you can just buy a single day license $20.
There will be other cars on the track but they release you in timed intervals and passing is usually kept to the straights i.e. no fighting for position through corners. Cars are also grouped into those of similar modification / lap times.
Hahaha sCOOBY!
Mad effort staying on the gas going through Eastern Loop sideways.
Good times too, 57! Mad quick.
Do you back off for the Kink just after main straight?
I was told not to, I only tried once and ran too deep for the entry to Carousel.
Speaking of which, I notice most ran a in out in line through there.
Is that normal or just for door to door racing? i.e blocking.
I kinda ran a out wide, place car in middle then cut deep into the last part of Carousel for a full throttle exit on that uphill bit.
haha cheers,
nah flat through the kink no dramas there, let the car run free, widest possible arc. feels good when youv nailed the exit of shell with a minimum speed of about 139. aero helps here bigtime.
then when its settled judge your brake marker by the change of surface line.
with carousel, entry line doesnt really make a difference to laptime so i usually just cut in early and trailbrake in, apex out in the middle of the road and aim for the straightest possible exit over the crest to minimise wheelspin and be ready to countersteer the slide. you can tell youv nailed it when youv got on it mega early and hardly have to counter at all. :]
many hours on the sim and many laps IRL to figure this place out !
yes on FZ mediums, had to increase wing angle to make it feel a bit safer at bridge.
higher exit speed from final corner pays off against the straightline drag i guess
yer, i did the xxxx driving day out there with a group of work mates.
was awesome fun and a great eye opener, plus driving lakeside was wicked.
lolz, despite repeatedly telling us not to lift off through a couple of the corners, one of the girls that did the drive with us did it, and left the track a couple of times.
the instructor refused to drive with her after about the 3rd high speed exit at various sections of the track.
Just chiming in to say that after learning Wilwood kits are not legal here (due to no dust boots & engineer won't sign off), I've gone ahead and ordered stoptech kits in 355mm 6pot fronts and 355mm 4pot rears in black for 4.5k to my door, not bad pricing considering front and rear kits here are over 10k.
No way, not paying $2400 for an old set of rusty brembos, which I believe are a lot smaller than my stoptech kits. Plus colour is wrong, black > gold (in my colour scheme anyway).
lol it's not ignorance, it's called "fucking rip off" and stupid if you pay that much for them. They have to be at least 3 years old. I believe the final production year for the 350z's was 2008 / early 2009 as the 370z's were produced in 2009.
Those brembo's look like they have had a lot of mileage on them, I'm not spending over 2k on brakes that i don't know the history of. If they were well below 2k i'd consider them.
second hand brembos would be just as effective and half the price, being 3 years old is nothing
shit I would still put 20 year old brembos from a 32 gtr on a track car if they were a good price
you can completely strip them and rebuild them in under an hour if you really had to, they would be as good as new
worst case you could spend $150 on an xray to check for metal fatigue, you're still up a grand or two on your kit
!! enigma and teq speak the truth! 3 years = brands new! mine are like 15+years old and i abuse them incredibly hard, and i'm alive.. touch wood.
ps dont run out of pad:
(dust boots vaporized, sold the calipers off cheap for someone else to rebuild. rotors were machineable and are back on the car, phew.)
you seriously wont need bigger brakes on street tyres. stock ones with half decent pads should overpower street tyres on any day of the week.
bigger ones will be needed when you start running multiple laps at race speed. brakes are just a device to soak up kinetic energy into heat.
so on the street, there is no use for bigger ones apart from carpark wank factor.
Big brake kits here are +- $10,000 that's why I went with the stoptechs. I thought the stoptechs were a good compromise without having to go chinese. I wanted the Wilwoods for $4k but engineer won't sign off on something that is not to Aus spec, he'd be liable if anything happened as a result of something he signed off. I've also got a twin turbo kit installed recently so I wanted bigger brakes for that cause what I have now are the cheap Nissan brakes and they're tiny as fuck so they look like shit in my bigger 19" rims. I'm gonna contact stoptech and check if they can change the fronts from 355mm to 380mm without too much hassle.
I wish I had smaller brakes (on the front). If I get a flat tyre on the front, I've got to put one of my rear tyres on the front and put the space saver on the rear otherwise it hits the front calipers. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. A 17" wheel + tyre won't fit in my spare tyre compartment (diameter too big). FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
I've never had engineering done for any of my mods and I've never had a problem at the track, on the street or while trying to sell a car
I think who ever is doing this work for you realises that you're happy to keep spending money as long as their lips keep moving
shit at one point I had 5 stud rotors drilled out to a 4 stud pcb so I could put them on a car they were never intended for
I wrote that car off and managed to get a full insurance payout, never a drama
I've never had engineering done for any of my mods and I've never had a problem at the track, on the street or while trying to sell a car
I think who ever is doing this work for you realises that you're happy to keep spending money as long as their lips keep moving
shit at one point I had 5 stud rotors drilled out to a 4 stud pcb so I could put them on a car they were never intended for
I wrote that car off and managed to get a full insurance payout, never a drama
your family also owns a repair shop. If he has an accident and the repair shop sees non- enginner certified work will the insurance still pay out? I'm guessing not.
A mate of mine has a 350z Track Eddition that he's fitted a Supercharger to, with the factory Brembos, StopTech two piece slotted rotors and Bendix SRT Pads he says brake fade was minimal
your family also owns a repair shop. If he has an accident and the repair shop sees non- enginner certified work will the insurance still pay out? I'm guessing not.
wtf teq, your argument pro non-engineered mods is ridiculous and ignorant. Lets say I chuck some dodgy aftermarket brakes on that were not engineer certified and I'm pulling up to an intersection, the brakes fail and I run into the back of another vehicle, or worse, into pedestrians crossing the street. Do you think the insurance company will cover me??
also in response to scoobs, I plan on tracking the car so the brake upgrade is necessary for me. I'm currently running small fly shit nissan factory brakes. I don't know why everyone here is getting their knickers in a knot lol.
as long as the calipers are ADR approved (i know the wilwoods aren't for some technical reason but you seem keen to go by the book) an engineer's plate is pretty much pointles.. what is he signing off? that the calipers are.... there?
why do you ask for advice if you basically know exactly what you want to do like you've done in every other thread you've made asking car advice
I'd take the Stop's over those used Brembos as well. IDGAF what you say. I'd also prefer to be engineered for insurance purposes, you are playing with fire if you dont.
Not every one is a poor cunt who needs second hand gear from fleabay cause I needz a bargainz maenz!
I didn't know what I wanted when I started the thread asking for advice. Also I might be spending a little less than double than the 2nd hand, smaller and uglier gold brembos, but I'm also spending less than half of what I could be, 6pot fronts from project mu, alcons, brembos etc are $6k (just for the fucking fronts).
i can see it now.
martz will be that guy holding up the faster excels for 90% of the track with grandma levels of cornerspeed and refusing to let them pass with his superior turbo acceleration on the straight
Do rotors make any difference to how well a car pulls up? Or is it all about the pads? I ask because the brakes on my corolla are pretty shithouse, you can slam on the brakes and they'll almost never lock up (not a bad thing I guess) but it just feels like they have no bite. They're brand new rotors and some random daily use bendix pads. I've always used bendix and they've had plenty of bite in the past.
I'm actually deciding what new rotors I want for the evo now. Might go the Project Mu's but I dont really like the green housing colour. Sigh...
Basically a solid disc will be fine for a single brake every now and again (like traffic, where most of it is pretty light and it's also why they tell you to gear down when breaking, saving your rotors from heating up).
But if you're on track where you're breaking at maximum capacity in many short intervals, then your brakes will quickly hit that brake threshold where they're hot and can't take anymore heat.
So basically to answer your question: For your corolla, no. Or rather, it shouldn't.
What makes a much bigger difference is brake pad and tyres and brake fluid (pressure).
Not that there's any special magical better braking fluid per-say, but rather that your lines are bled so the force you put into the pedal goes (cmpounded by properties of distributed force) into the calipers. If there is air in the lines they'll feel spongy and shit and you'll not be able to lock up your wheels as the air bubbles compress, instead of delivering the force to the caliper.
Size of brake pads and the quality of brake pads matter a lot. Size is determined by the calipers of course.
If your rotor overheats, the symptoms of brake fade are you'll notice either your brakes "bite" where your tyres very quickly lock up, or dont' break much at all. There's no real in-between bit where you break heavily.
edit: Forgot to mention though, if your rotors are worn, then your breaking will be massively reduced if they've worn in a concave manner (pretty normal). Normally you won't notice because your pad will have worn in the same shape but if you replace your pads so your new ones are flat, but your rotor has huge gash's or is a concave shape, then the pad (which is the effective part) won't be effective.
So always make sure your rotors are machined if you have a "lip" of more then 3mm.
Edit3:
In order of priority
Brake fluid
Brake pads
Tyres
Calipers (and therefore bigger pads and rotors)
rotors
Just read backwards a little, if you're doing track in that fwd corolla and you're worried about brakefade, then rotors become more important, but the point of other types of rotors is that they cool between breaking intervals better, they don't by themselves increase breaking capacity.
TL;DR because it's a corolla no. Unless you're taking it to track or constantly doing downhill slaloms with rapid breaking action then it'd be better to duct air to the wheel wells rather than replace your rotors.
of course he has ABS, his engineer has already tallied up how much he's going to charge him to adjust his brake bias once he completely fucks it by putting ENORMOUS calipers on stock rubber lines with a stock master cylinder lols
nah the corolla is my daily, when the weather cools down (moreso for my comfort than the car's) the evo will be the one that gets the fun times. That's why I asked other evo dude to keep me informed on what he gets and how good they are :p Brakes in the evo stop me real good for now, was just info I could tuck away.
I just asked because ever since I got the new rotors (old ones were warped and worn to hell) and pads in the corolla they don't seem to have been as effective. I had them done at a shop and they don't feel spongy. It kind of feels like you need to put more pressure on them than you should, but maybe the brakes in it are just shit. The booster still works fine btw. They're not unsafe in anyway, maybe I'm just used to having better brakes or something. The rotors are pretty tiny.
AFIAK, Slacks Creek Brake can bore out your MC and put a bigger piston in.
You'll probably need it to push all that fluid to control 6 pots!
I recommend them too. (they're not the ones who did my corolla, I won't mention who that was).
All these track people on here, let's start a "post your cars" thread or something. How long has it been since the last one?
woop it's possible they're still bedding in or weren't bedded correctly in the first place. also a little bit of air in the lines can give much reduced braking without a hugely obvious spongey feeling in the pedal.
bleed them again and deglaze the pads if you're concerned.
Martz, have you investigated what's required for engineering?
Not sure how the scheme works in QLD, but in VIC to engineer against the national standard requires the engineer inspect the whole car (not just the component you specify). If a similar process applies, I suspect you will be struggling to have a twin turbo setup pass emissions requirements (which of themselves are very costly & difficult to comply with). There's a reason most people don't bother!
Yeah brake break and brasdfasd are all in there somewhere if you look close enough. I gave up after a while i just popped in to see where the thread went and answered a question. Then I went to bed.
Edit: May as well be ontopic...
My car is not a track day car, but in it's element it's still pretty fun; comfortable cruises.
Martz, have you investigated what's required for engineering?
Not sure how the scheme works in QLD, but in VIC to engineer against the national standard requires the engineer inspect the whole car (not just the component you specify). If a similar process applies, I suspect you will be struggling to have a twin turbo setup pass emissions requirements (which of themselves are very costly & difficult to comply with). There's a reason most people don't bother!
not sure, but everything passed fine without any major issues.
Stupid weather, it's raining again! I was going to take some pictures today, I haven't got any apart from close ups of it in the garage because there's no room to stand back.
someone lend me a smoke machine so it looks like I know how to drift :p
That's mighty close to the inside of turn 6 exit for a solo run son.
if he's anything like me he does time attack all day, then towards the end of the day when you know you're packing up - (and dont mind getting kicked off the track) - it's time to drift
Yeah slow entry speed. Was starting from the dipper track section. 190kw doesn't quite get me up to enough speed to get a great corner. Had some far better than that but no shots. Also need some steering modifications for more lock.
190 is enough.
Mine had 197, using brand new 235 tyres. I can clear turn 6 in 3rd, bouncing off limiter.
On a good run I could put the rear tyres on the ripple strip on exit.
Steering lock spacers should be all need since it's a S14. That thing has more lock than my 4 door with tein rods and spacers.
Turn 6 is massive. Throw it in hard, be quick on the counter and easy on the throttle. As you reach the apex get on the noise, dip the clutch if you let the revs drop too much.
Then stick your hand out the window and wave to your mum.
If you're not getting enough steering response on entry, try running some toe out on the fronts.
Nothing more satisfying than pulling off a edge to edge drift from start to finish.
Saw a skyline tailgating a Jaguar xkr in Browns Plains the other day, right up his arse, when they got to where it splits into three lanes at the pub then goes back to two the skyline ducked into the short lane.
They took off on the green, man that Jaguar hunched down and ate the skyline, I got up to 120 just to keep them in view as they flew off at 200+, was nice to see something roaring rather then hiccoughing (bov) for a change. Skyline looked nice, but the Jag just looked so graceful.
You don't often see a Jag go for it, so the skyline probably thought a little squeeze go around, see you later then by the time he realised the Jag was hauling it was too late.
I used to have a xj6, just had a port and polish, not the fastest, and so much weight it was slow on take off, but most of the time I drove it sedately around, when I put my foot down it had enough grunt. Also had read fog lights, which when you switched on made it look like you were braking, hit the go faster pedal and hit the switch, you'd see the little cunt two cm's from your arse lock it up in panic as you roar away and make some safety room.
Heh, i had a friend spend 16000 or so on an '86 integra the story is long so here it goes..
Throughout his teenage youth before we could drive he and I had been playing with a 1970's toyota celica wreck. I call it a wreck because it was rusted and old and the tyres had gone flat in his back yard. But on weekends we'd get out angle grinders putty and sandpaper, and had gotten rid of all the rust. The engine itself wasn't touched yet, but it was planned in putting something that wasn't so stock instead anyway.
One party later, and some kids jumped on it's roof in the dark because they thought it was just a wreck.
So anyway, he turns 16.5 and gets his learners, 6 months later and his license. He buys an integra for a few grand and we finish highschool he becomes an apprentice mechanic. He luckily lands himself in a nice spot, a engineering shop near where scuzzy lives now actually, just a bit northside. Every day he's working on rebuilding engines as you do because the shop almost exclusively was stroking big bored engines for 40+ year old american cars. He loves cars himself so he takes out a loan for about 15 000.
He strokes his 1986 integra's 1.6L DOHC engine, bores it, gets big piston heads and increases the compression ratio. He gets some new crow cams with fat lobes and while he's at it he throws in strong valve springs and gets some adjustable cams. He rebuilds his transmission with a nice heavy duty clutch plate, nothing too fancy but more than enough for a 1.6L engine a light weigh flywheel and gets himself a piggyback ECU of sorts, i can't remember which one.
Oh yeah and an exhaust, obviously extractors, cat, resonator single pipe thing. Bigger than stock but not too big. Kind of loud.
For 3 months after he's built it he's in the running in phase, running in oils, dropping them meticulously driving under 4k rpm and considering the hill he lived on he had to get a bit of a run up to do that. After he's clocked the K's he can wind up the engine a bit.. he's a bit like "well there's not much power" but he knows he can still play with ignition timings and fuel ratios, so he gets it tuned.
I on the other hand had a daihatsu charade 1.5L. It was my parents before I bought it off them, while i liked working with my hands I had no interest in cars (well until i started driving, but i already bought the car by then). Once i started driving I started liking it. I couldn't do much to a chrade, i cut a huge hole in the air box and siliconed a 3" ducting pipe to the front bar, the idea to "Scoop" cold air into the airbox. Faster i drove, more air would be "scooped". I also added a resistor on the air tempreature sensor which I calculated to make the ecu think air was 10-20%ish colder than it really was. In other words it'd put more fuel in.
I also grabbed some 14" rims, which were plain and boring; suitable for what was essentially my mum's kid carry car. And some $50 king springs second hand off ebay to increase the rigidity. Overall I spent maybe about $300 in mods.
After his tune, we had a 1/4 mile drag. His car, after a tune was green lighted to be fine above 10 000rpm so he had a limit for 9500 (thanks to his piggyback ecu). So we were lined up, in a road his family owns on their farm (i'm not joking, his family owns a farm and it's got a 2 lane road before it turns to dirt after about 3kms as you get close to the house). So lined up at the fenceline to the 1/4 mile mark which was drawn with chalk, we gave it a drag.
he beat me, money does that when the car was faster anyway. But by only a single car length. Every time I shifted gear, I fell further behind. his 9500 rpm allowed his first to take him up to what like 70kph where as i was shifting by 55.
We finished our drag it wasn't a win for him despite being first. 3 months later he sold his car and he tells me: "If I ever modify a vehicle for speed again, i'm not doing this bullshit NA crap again. If you want power, that's what a turbo is for."
Anyway just kind of a funny story, but anytime if anyone jokes about a NA car i always feel bad. Because I loved my mates integra. It was 86, panda white and black and had the worlds most comfortable front seats. I wish he never sold it but he saw it as a moneypit i guess and would never have given up if he didn't get rid of it.
This is the same colour and year as his:
Must be a common problem to get rust under the rear wing too..
REAL CARS DONT SNEEZE!
Xr8 Boss 260 stock as all hell and love it
That's news to me buddy.
I know of a F20c, 4G63, H22, GT35R + B18C (I left black lines on the highway when that thing came on boost in 3rd.) , 13BTT and maybe a K20.
Can't say I know of anyone in QLD that runs a built K24(2.6L)
EGK24A is now Super charged I believe (NSW)
And so is the K20 EG here in QLD. Sounds wicked.
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