TLDR? Not my problem. I don't care, At this point, I've done all the reading, buying, whatever.
Stick with Logitech? They haven't made a mechanical keyboard yet -- and that is all I have to say on that issue.
http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Keyboards-and-Keyboard-Mice/Any-Current-Non-ghosting-keyboards-tested/m-p/278488
- I make no comment about Logitech *poke poke poke* *wink wink nudge nudge*
Mind you though the Logitech MX518 was pretty cool back in the day. I had the chance to buy one about 6 years ago but I was 20 bucks short. Damn. G500 was is pretty cool as well if you can get it before certain serial number conditions.
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Currently using:
Keyboard:- DUCKYGK9008G2 - Brown Switch / FILCO Brown Switch (NKEY Rollover) / Razer Blackwidow Ultimate (pending and I tend not to use the Blackwidow as much. Think of it as a
trophy wife to add the collection of plastic crap.)
Mouse:- Deathadder 3.5G / Steelseries Sensei or Xai (Depends on the game)
Mouse Mat:- Goliathus Control Mat / Goliathus Speed Mat / Mantis Speed Mat (Not produced anymore) / PureTrak Talent Mouse Mat.
Links to shop resources listed below.
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Here's what Team Liquid uses/recommends:
http://www.teamliquid.net/forum/viewmessage.php?topic_id=174311 - Mouse
http://www.teamliquid.net/forum/viewmessage.php?topic_id=260143 - Keyboard
http://www.teamliquid.net/forum/viewmessage.php?topic_id=172579 - Here they discuss what the professional people use.
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Keyboards
Ducky 9008G2 Brown Switch (Has NKEY Rollover)
http://tigerimports.net/sunshop/index.php?l=product_list&c=76
- They're expensive but its a Taiwan importer. So you get what you pay for. (Also with the USD get dominated by the AUD at this time take advantage.)
The FILCO Brown Switch Keyboard (NKEY Rollover edition - usually avaliable from Amazon.)
http://www.diatec.co.jp/en/#15810866621634334106 - You might be lucky enough to get it from Japan.
Which leads me to point #2, a lot of people sell boxed/pre-owned mechanical keyboards on E-bay.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?29879-Ripster-s-WW-Keyboard-Shopping-Guide
- Ripster's big list of shipping links. Unlike OCAU. Geekhack is where most of the original information came from. Although OCAU is usually good for overclocking information.
Brief low down on the switch types:
Cherry Brown Switch - good to type and game on
Cherry Blue Switch - Slightly lighter than brown, but clicks more and takes less actuation force to press down.
Cherry Brown Switch - Harder than Blue and Brown and takes a fuck-ton of force to press.
Cherry Red Switch - Slightly less than Cherry Brown, but actuation force varies from keyboard to keyboard.
Mice:
Razer Deathadder
http://www.scorptec.com.au/computer/40409-rz-deathadder-bk
http://www.scorptec.com.au/computer/35672-rz-deathadder-v2
Avago 3888 Sensor.
Steelseries Sensei
http://www.scorptec.com.au/computer/42228-62150/
Avago 9500 Sensor
& Steelseries Xai
http://www.umart.com.au/newindex28.phtml?id=10&bid=2&sid=72684
http://www.netplus.com.au/product/MSSTXAI/SteelSeries_XAI_Gaming_Mouse/
Avago 9500 Sensor.
Additional Notes (Tips Hat to these mice)
- Microsoft IMO 1.1 (STMicroelectronics OS MLT 04 Sensor).
- Microsoft IME 3.0 (STMicroelectronics OS MLT 04 Sensor).
and interestingly enough:
-Logitech G400 (Avago 3095 Sensor)
-Cooler Master Storm Spawn (Avago ADNS-3090 Sensor)
and finally the original:
-Razer Deathadder 3G (Avago ADNS-S3668 Sensor) - If you can still get it; if you see it, buy it.
I do have a few other older mice like the Copperhead and two of the original Lachesis 4000 DPI Mice (shamefully) but I hardly ever use them. I still think the Avago Sensor 3888 is where it is at.
Mouse Mats:
Razer Goliathus (Not the first plain editions -- they had a bad weave problem, but the ones with the green splash of paint on them.)
http://www.scorptec.com.au/computer/41401-rz-golia-f-ctl-std-r - Control edition is more rigid and you get obviously better contour (Usual CPI around 1800~3500?.
http://www.scorptec.com.au/computer/41273-rz-golia-f-sp-std-r - Speed Edition is like the PureTrak Talent listed below and is about as close as I've come to anyone who uses CPI of 400~1600 (Think sniping)
&
PureTrak Talent - Which is the one I recommend to people who have drinks around their machine cause you can chuck it on the washing machine.
http://www.puretrak.com/products/item/6
Other important things you might want to consider reading: (More technical orientated)
http://www.nextlevelgamer.com/tweaks/dont-modify-your-windows-sensitivity - Why you don't touch your windows sensitivity and you just leave it at 6.
http://www.ngohq.com/news/15043-how-to-increase-usb-sample-rate-in-windows-vista-7-a.html
- Hack your mouse rate (If you use a generic mouse)
Be careful, has been known on older boards to screw with the USB or Windows and its hard to get rid of the driver.
But it should logically be, Ok and most gaming mice have software that does this for you anyway.
http://donewmouseaccel.blogspot.com.au/2010/03/markc-windows-7-mouse-acceleration-fix.html
- Mouse Acceleration fix for Windows 7
http://www.gamebanana.com/cs/tools/717
- Mouse Acceleration fix for Windows XP (Although tried it once in Windows 7, results were promising.)
http://www.esreality.com/index.php?a=post&id=2024663 - Sensor information about prediction, z-axis on various mice.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?29596-Ripster-s-N-key-Rollover-Guide
- Ripster's guide to NKEY Rollover under PS/2(NKRO) or USB (6KRO) (If you're interested in how many keys your keyboard can press down and why not 'every' keyboard is a 'gaming keyboard'. Albeit some keyboards have certain clusters of keys wired to act as 6KRO or something close to it.